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Akai S3000 vs S3000XL the ultimate test – which is better?

Image source: eBay

The Akai S3000 and S3000XL samplers, iconic fixtures in the music production landscape of the 1990s, revolutionized the way musicians and producers approached sampling and sound design. Renowned for their robust build, intuitive interface, and unparalleled sound quality, these samplers became staples in studios worldwide. The S3000, introduced in the early 90s, quickly garnered acclaim for its versatility and expansive feature set. The subsequent release of the S3000XL built on this foundation, offering enhanced functionality and greater ease of use. Together, these models not only defined an era of digital sampling but also influenced a generation of artists, shaping the sounds of genres ranging from hip-hop to electronic music.

Simple Test
However, despite their shared legacy, various myths have emerged online, with debates over whether one model is superior to the other in terms of sound quality. To address these claims, the most straightforward approach is to conduct direct comparisons. Audio enthusiast Tech44 from the Gearspace forum undertook this task, leveraging his high-level expertise and high-quality audio equipment to ensure accurate results. Tech44’s method was meticulous: instead of merely playing loops through each sampler, he loaded individual samples into both the S3000 and S3000XL and then sequenced them back via MIDI. This approach provided a real-world application scenario, allowing for a true comparison of their performance and sound reproduction capabilities. This article delves into the history, features, and lasting impact of the Akai S3000 and S3000XL, and presents Tech44’s findings to determine if there is a definitive answer to the debate over which sampler truly reigns supreme. A simple A vs B test was created from his recordings by splicing the two samplers back to back. For those curious or who want to analyze the data themselves here is an audio recording of one sampler followed by the other:

S3000 vs S3000XL.wav (24bit, 44kHz audio file in uncompressed wav format)

On the Gearspace forum in “All Akai’s are sexy thread” we posted this audio file above. There people were required to tell which part of the recording is S3000 and which is S3000XL. Out of 750 downloads a total of 0 correct answers were given. Let that sink in. 🙂 At this point we could simply end the article, because regardless of your listening environment I think it is clear you will be unable to tell which is which. However, let’s dig a little bit deeper, since we want the final truth.

Advanced Analytics
“But wait, they must sound different I’ve read it on the internet…”. Alright, folks. Since on the Gearspace forum we already determined that us humans can’t tell the difference between the S3000 and the S3000XL as nobody was able to pinpoint exactly which sampler was at certain point of the recording. Time to call in the big guns: computers! Inspired by someone’s astute observation that the S3000XL sounds like it was made out of Legos (it sounds plastic), I present to you our thrilling new saga.

Finding the plastic: Volume 1 The Quest Begins
First stop: the low end! If I were plastic, that’s where I’d hide in between 20-350 Hz. Let’s compare the S3000XL on the left and the S3000 on the right. Click the image for full size. Hmmm… the spectrograms look identical. Well, that’s a bummer.

Wait! If it sounds plastic, it must be in the highs. Let’s crank it up to -120dB, and go to high frequency, and I mean extremely high in 17000-22000 Hz where only dogs and bats dare to listen. Click the image for full size. Aaand… nothing. Spectrograms still look the same. S3000XL on the left and the S3000 on the right.

You know what. Now when I think of the plastic and frequencies involved in the sound. Of course, plastic would be in the midrange. How did I miss that? Let’s check it out. Left: S3000XL, right: S3000. But no, they look identical in the 1-5kHz range.

Finding the plastic: Volume 2 The Plot Thickens
And then it hit me, like in that movie, “The Usual Suspects.” When you can’t find the tiny details, zoom out and look at the big picture! So, let’s zoom out and search for plastic artifacts. Nope. Spectrograms are still twinsies. Left: S3000XL, right: S3000.

Hey plastic! Where are you hiding?
Just as I was about to throw in the towel, a lightbulb moment! If it’s not in the signal and in the things we hear, then it must be hiding deep in the noise. Right! Let’s amplify the range a gazillion times and inspect the background noise. Aha! The plastic has to be there. Somewhere! Elsewhere? Nowhere! Left: S3000XL, right: S3000. Spoiler alert: still nada.

The verdict
Despite rigorous tests showing no difference in sound between the Akai S3000 and S3000XL samplers, many users continue to believe that one sounds better than the other. This phenomenon can be attributed to cognitive bias, specifically confirmation bias and the placebo effect.

This occurs when people favor information that confirms their preexisting beliefs or values. If a user believes that older equipment, such as the S3000, must sound better due to its higher original cost or its vintage status, they are likely to interpret their listening experiences in a way that supports this belief. They might ignore or downplay evidence that contradicts their preconceived notions, such as blind tests showing no discernible difference in sound quality. And this takes a LOT of effort especially once the evidence starts pouring in.

When we say rigorous tests, we mean EXTREME rigorous in 24 bit domain which offers 140 dB of headroom for analytics where human ear is not even capable(!) to analyse anything to begin with. This is why he have computers. And they say: no difference whatsoever. And it makes sense as we will touch this subject in the chapters below as they are crucial in understanding the whole picture. One thing to remember from all of this:

Do not believe the myths coming from random nobodies on the internet. Instead, prioritize relying on empirically supported data that is open to personal analysis. Should you lack the necessary expertise to conduct such analysis, it remains prudent to refer to authoritative sources. This particular article presents the results of rigorous testing and includes access to the raw 24-bit data, enabling independent verification and analysis. This article was not written for those individuals with cognitive bias because they already made their mind and any attempt into changing it is a waste of time. The more evidence you present them, the more faster they change the goal posts. Instead of ending the article here, and especially if you are interested in buying any of these units, or it was in fact the reason you visited this article at the first place, we will include a few chapters that could help your decision and even include a few FX and resonant filter demos.

So, which model is for you?
One important consideration is RAM. If you plan to upgrade S3000 expect to pay $150 (May 2024) for 8 MB expansion. If you plan to upgrade S3000XL, expect to pay $15 for 16 MB expansion. This extreme difference (1:10 ratio) is due to the fact that S3000 uses proprietary RAM while S3000XL uses 72 pin SIMM which is cheap as the postage cost itself.

It should be noted that the S3000 comes with a built-in effects processor, while the S3000XL does not. Instead it requires an additional effects card, the EB16FX, which has become increasingly difficult to find these days. The S3000’s onboard effects include Echo, Chorus, and Pitch Shift. In contrast, the EB16FX board for the S3000XL offers a more extensive array of effects: Echo, Chorus, Reverb, Pitch Shift, Distortion, EQ, Ring Modulation, Flange, and Phaser. This means that an S3000XL equipped with the EB16FX board provides a much larger palette of effects. So if you are after a known artist for whom you know used S3000 and its internal FX, then go with the S3000. If you just want that S3000 sound for basic playback, then it doesn’t matter, you can pick either of the two. If you have EB16FX board in your MPC and looking to add a hardware sampler, then S3000XL would definitely be a better choice.

Not only does the EB16FX board expand the variety of available effects, but it also enhances the flexibility of their application. The EB16FX features two parallel multi effects blocks, each capable of handling any of the effects, plus two additional effects blocks dedicated to reverb. This configuration allows for a total of four parallel effects blocks, offering a significant advantage in terms of creative possibilities.

While this article does not delve into a comparison of the quality of these effects or the differences between the S3000 and S3000XL in this regard, we acknowledge that this is an area of interest for many users. For those curious about the sound of the EB16FX board, we will provide demo recordings in the addendum. These demos aim to showcase the capabilities of the EB16FX board, offering listeners a chance to hear the effects in action and form their own opinions.

Image source: mpchunter.com

Moore’s Law
There is a common concept that older equipment inherently sounds “better”, maybe it does, but when comparing the Akai S3000 and S3000XL samplers this is a flawed starting point. Because both models featured absolute state-of-the-art converters at the time of their release, representing the pinnacle of audio technology. Converter is not just one single IC but the entire circuitry dedicated for recreating digital signal in analogue domain. It is unfortunate that people focus on a single chip, rather than entire board that is delivering the actual waveform.

When the S3000i was introduced, it came with an internal drive and maximum memory capacity, and it could cost close to $10,000 with all expansions —a staggering price that reflected its cutting-edge capabilities and premium components. The period when these samplers were released was marked by significant breakthroughs in semiconductor technology, with Moore’s Law driving rapid advancements. This meant that just a few years later, the S3000XL was introduced at a much more affordable price point. The key difference was not in sound quality but in technological advancements and cost efficiencies. Unlike the S3000, the S3000XL no longer required expensive proprietary Akai memory. Instead, it used more affordable 72-pin SIMMs, which had become widely available and inexpensive due to the booming computer market.

Additionally, the S3000XL benefited from more powerful CPU resources, offering better performance for a fraction of the cost of the S3000. This drastic reduction in price, due to cheaper memory and improved semiconductor technology, often leads to confusion when people compare the original release prices of these two models. It’s important to note that despite the lower cost, the S3000XL was still a significant investment, unaffordable for an average school kid at the time.

Understanding this context is crucial for appreciating why the S3000XL could be sold at a lower price without compromising on quality. The advancements in technology allowed for more efficient production and reduced costs, making high-quality sampling more accessible to a broader range of users.

The history
When the Akai S3000 was released, it represented the ultimate goal for every serious music producer. Owning an S3000 signaled that you had truly “made it” in the industry. Its cutting-edge technology and superior sound quality set it apart from competitors, making it a coveted piece of equipment. Producers with an S3000 knew they had a significant advantage over those still using older models like the Roland W30, Akai S950, Roland S-550, or even the Akai S1000. There was simply no comparison to the superiority of the S3000 when considering the context of that era. Among other things it finally gave the Akai S series a resonant filter and we will actually demonstrate some of it on the later S3000XL model in the demos below (in the addendum of the article).

The prestige of the S3000 was such that people would go to great lengths to acquire one, including taking out loans. This sampler was more than just a piece of equipment; it was a serious investment in one’s music career. Owning an S3000 meant you were a serious player in the game, with tools that could outperform nearly anything else available at the time. Its powerful features and unparalleled capabilities made it indispensable for professional music production, and having one in your studio was a clear indication of your commitment to quality and innovation in music creation. A few years later it was replaced by S3000XL with the same impressive specs. First units of S3000XL were assembled in Japan, while the later were assembled in China. They all feature exact the same internal boards that were made in Japan. In the two images below we can see the inside of the unit that was assembled in Japan and below it the inside of the unit that was assembled in China. They both contain the same PCB’s which say made in Japan.

S3000XL assembled in Japan

S3000XL assembled in China (click to zoom)

 

ADDENDUM:

Akai EB16FX board – the demos with S3000XL
First a small disclaimer. Don’t let it fool you, but EB16FX can be a bit frustrating at times, since all of the effects are routed through the main output. Also while containing some very useful effects, you will find yourself using it at only 50% of its potential. Because the board is split into 4 effects groups that run all the time in parallel. So if you use effect A it will take the whole headroom and you are forced to mix it internally with effect B. As a result you start using only effect A, because both effects at once can turn into mud, while all 4 effects can create a lot of mess. With that being said it is possible to use them all at once. But in most situations the half of DSP chip will be twiddling thumbs – doing nothing.

In my opinion, what they should have done was to use ALL of the DSP power and gave us one multi effect plus one reverb. As a result the board would have twice more fidelity, more quality, dynamic range, bandwidth etc. If it only had one proper effect rather than 4 at a time and employ full DSP power for that effect, it would be excellent addition. Because algorithms are quite good. There is: distortion, EQ, ring mod, chorus, flange, phaser, pitch shift, pan mod, delay and reverb.

The board can look absurd at times, because in effects A and B you already have reverb option, while C and D are reverbs only. So you end up having a possible scenario where you were supposed to Mix 4 different reverbs, all internally in digital domain and all streaming that through one set of stereo outs. This is an early 90’s 16 bit device, and not your DAW where you can mix things with near infinite bit depth. But it is what it is. Let’s hear some of the effects in a few demos. Sorry these were made under 5 minutes, so don’t expect some hit music in here and pardon the mp3 audio quality. Sources of the four demos below: All internal synthesis (internal waveforms only), no external samples used (except for drums). Internal effects only (EB16 effects board).

Analogue Pad – demonstration of a wide EB16 chorus.
Ring Modulator Arpeggio – excellent ring modulator for Techno!
Bass and Arpeggio – demonstration of envelopes and resonant filter performance.
Saw Line Flanged/Delay – another one, but with cool flanged delay.

Extreme low (filter test):
Filter open/close – loop processing. I hope you have either large speakers or good headphones that go well below 30Hz. This is extreme low end, particularly towards the end of recording, yet full of power, earth shaking. Absolutely fantastic sounding filter. Hint: try this on other samplers. Only a few can do this kind of low end!

Well that kinda wraps it all up. I hope that you enjoyed the article. If you would like to add some extra infos that you think would be beneficial for the article feel free to comment below, we will gladly share it with the rest of the world! Or if you just want to share your anecdote, again feel free to comment!

Akai S1000 Upgrades

Installed the LED based display. It is quite bright if not too bright actually.

So I’ve drilled a hole in the back and installed a 1k LOG pot there.

And installed 22 ohm resistor in series. Together cutting on the LED supply current. Display can now be dimmed. At fully dimmed position it is roughly as bright as stock EL Foil based one. Important, the resistor is crucial, else you might damage the LED unit.

I’ve installed a FF based Gotek drive. Actually the stock M0 jumper setting turned out to be working perfectly fine but I have moved it to S0 position later, to be on the safe side. FF is superior to HxC as it will never make the unit freeze during floppy disk change phase (if you change it too fast).
EDIT: I just noticed the Gotek had an old HxC firmware. While the FF was the latest version.

New power supply in. This is a must! It is known that many Akai S1000’s have been damaged due to faulty PSU’s that are now showing their age (expired resource). This Akai came with a Meanwell RS35-5 power supply which previous owner sent separately cause he didn’t know how to install it. I’ve drilled two holes in the bottom of the unit and screwed the new power supply in. It is crucial to either restore the existing power supply or purchase a new one. Else you are risking to seriously damage the unit!

You can use existing wires just fine. As long as you know what you are doing. Disclaimer: I will never answer any question that involves electricity.

Ok the memory cards can be tricky to install correctly and work if you have mixed sized boards. Here is the setup that I have found via trial and error. Slot 1: 2MB Slot 2: 8MB Slot 3: 8 MB Slot 4: 2 MB

Once you’re done, toss it on top of the S1100 just so you can show others you have both.

Demos of a few dozen hardware Reverbs

Far from any scientific or “professional” test, this is just a quick bunch of demos when a reverb is pushed a bit harder, say into the 10 second decay time and only around* -6dB below main track. Don’t use it as a reference because results will vary depending on the recording levels at – take it with a grain of salt. All tracks encoded to FLAC (lossless format). Feel free to share if you find it useful.

Regarding the Akais, both of my units are expanded with their respective FX boards (it is not the same FX board as they are many years apart) and they can be used as a regular effects processors, while Kurzweil has a sampling board which again turns it into an external effects processor (it can do way way more than just a reverb, think of it as Eventide’s little brother). I no longer remember why I recorded two reverbs from PCM-70. I guess I wanted to display it’s less chorusy side of things and more closer to the rest of the bunch.

*yeah, some reverb tails might be a bit off. I actually mixed everything on an analogue mixer during the period of a few days, so probably some are louder than others. Sorry about that!

Bonus:

Akai S-950 Upgrades Part4: DD & HD floppy to image conversion

So your Akai came with a bunch of DD and HD floppies, you converted them to images, started a Gotek drive only to be greeted with a message saying unformatted disk, or no disk in drive, etc and you have to facepalm yourself. I know the feeling!

The source of the problem is that Gotek HxC does not like having both DD (double density) and HD (high density) disk images on the same USB stick. Even if you set the configuration file to Auto, and use .hfe rather then .img files it just refuses to work. In fact it took me whole day to find the combination that works. But eventually i found a solution to have the content of both DD and HD images on the same USB stick. You will have to do exactly as described in here, else the things just won’t work.

A bunch of DD and HD floppies that we will eventually put onto this small USB stick.

First thing you will need a Windows based computer with a floppy disk drive. You will install HxCFloppyEmulator software onto it. You will then insert your Akai floppy and press Floppy Disk Dump. The program might ask you to install an extra driver in here, so install it if it says so. Once the floppy is being read, use Export, and export it as .hfe file. Make sure you label the files sequentially as DSKA0000.hfe, DSKA0001.hfe etc. I suggest you dump first all of the DD disks, then the HD disks into separate folder.

Here are the same floppies in .img format. I used Omniflop on my old WinXP machine to read the floppies because i thought i would use them as .img files. In the end this method just didn’t work right with mixed DD & HD content, so i advise you to go directly .hfe export via HxC2001 software. Pro tip: Don’t bother with OmniFlop.

Keep in mind what is being described in here applies only if your Akai came with mixed DD and HD floppies. If it only came with HD then you are set already and can write the config file to your FAT32 formatted USB stick, with following settings.

These settings work 100%. Save this config to your USB stick and you’re set.

Now comes the tricky part. You will need to use two USB sticks temporarily. This is in fact the only solution that worked. Eventually it will all end on one single USB stick so this is just the temporary phase. Take the second USB stick, make sure it is FAT32, start HxC2001 and make another configuration and export it onto that USB stick. The configuration will differ slightly, instead of AKAI S950 HD set under the Mode, you will have to choose S950 DD. Think of these two USB sticks as two different floppy drives: one is the DD (double density) the other is HD (high density). Hence one will contain only the DD images, while other only the HD images.

Now count the number of DD floppies. Let’s say you have 12 of them. That means you will need to generate 12 HD empty floppies. Go into HxC, make sure you have set it to S950 HD and generate an empty floppy image. Please read HxC “Floppy Emulator Software – Step by Step Guide” to learn how to generate an empty floppy image. Make sure to select Predefined Disk Layout for Akai S-950. Once the file has been generated you will need to copy it 11 more times. Pro tip: You can in fact copy them a few more times, because it doesn’t hurt to have extra spare few empties for your own sampling purposes, and ONE extra empty that you can archive, so that you don’t have to start HxC2001 software each time you want an empty S950 floppy image. Always make sure to label these new files sequentially. For example: Let’s suppose you have 15 HD floppies that you converted into images and have put them onto an USB stick. The are labeled DSKA0000.hfe – DSKA0014.hfe, that means you will need to label your empty HD images starting with DSKA0015.hfe and continuing sequentially up. More importantly there can be NO gaps between file numbers. The sequence always must be continuous, ie: 0017, 0018, 0019…

The image above shows that we have two USB sticks. On USB stick one we have DD floppy disk images with appropriate HXCSDFE configuration file that we generated earlier for S950 DD floppies. The second stick contains our HD disk images, with appropriate HXCSDFE configuration file for HD images, plus our new empty images that we just generated (shown in blue), plus a few extra empties (shown in purple color) for our own sampling.

What we are doing here is getting 12 HD floppies on which we will save our 12 DD floppies. Because for some reason Gotek does not like having both HD and DD flopy image files on the same USB stick. And this is the source of all the problems, and why we are doing this workaround at the first place.

Now it’s our time to start the “conversion process”. Our goal is to convert our DD images into HD format, so that we can work with HD images only, because that’s how Gotek HxC wants to work, and there aren’t many alternatives around. First you will insert the USB stick that contains DD floppy images. You will start the Akai, and load whole disk using DISK / 02 Clear mem & load disk. Once the DD disk has been loaded insert the second USB stick and save the content of your memory onto the HD disk using DISK / 05 Clear volume and save entire memory. And that it pretty much it!

Remove the second USB, insert the first one and repeat the process. Don’t forget to choose next disk on your Gotek drive using Next button. In our example we would insert USB stick 1 and load a file called 000, we would then insert USB stick 2 and save onto the file called 015 (shown on Gotek’s LED display). Once you finished all DD floppies and they have been saved onto HD images, you can toss away the USB stick with DD images and from now on only use second USB stick which is all HD images.

Doggo approves!

Akai S-950 Upgrades Part3: Floppy drive to HxC Gotek conversion / upgrade

So i eventually made an order, despite the fact the floppy was working just fine, floppy emulator is a way better solution. Just a few days later, the package was here with HxC modified Gotek drive. Special thanks to Acid Mitch.

The floppy is held by these four screws on the bottom of the unit. Remove them.

Now you need to remove the power supply board in order to reach the back side of the floppy drive. And with it being reachable, detach the ribbon and power connector from the existing floppy drive.

Remove this metal frame from the floppy drive. Do NOT rotate anything. Leave the floppy drive aside and take the new Gotek drive and connect it exactly as the old floppy drive was connected.

The result should look exactly like this.

Insert the new drive into the unit, and connect the ribbon and power connector, then screw in the four screws that hold the floppy drive in place.

And here it is. Floppy out, Gotek HxC in.

Akai S-950 Upgrades Part2: LCD display upgrade and modification

Some people are just greedy. In fact it was one of the eBay listings that made me inspire do a thread like this. Just take a look at these prices for these “kits” and below i will show you what is the actual “kit” in here. It’s one single strip connector that cost $0.5 and two wires that are already on your Akai! So someone soldered this strip onto their LCD screen and called it a “S-950 Kit”. Very funny!

So, instead of going for this:

Go for this:

Now in order to use your new display you will need to take out the old one and take a look at the strip connector. That is the type you need. It has to be the same shape, bent, rather than straight. Keep in mind, Akai already has everything else to connect the display. The ribbon cable can simply be detached / attached, no desoldering of the ribbon needed, making this super simple modification. You just need to solder this new strip connector and you are done. Make sure you cut the new strip connector to be 14 pins and not 16, else you won’t be able to attach existing 14 pin plastic connector to it.

Here it is ladies and gentlemen, this connector is what makes S-950 LCD display “kit”.

Make sure to remove the noisy inverter. Your Akai no longer needs it. DO NOT throw away the connector that was attached on the front panel, instead cut the wires exactly as shown above while keeping the connector – you will need that connector later to provide power supply for the LED backlight.

With the new display ready, glue three spacers onto three holes where the original screws went thru. I’ve made spacers from the voltage regulator spacer but i cut the inner part of it (the one that goes into power regulator). Every electronics store has these insulators, since you need them to insulate your voltage regulator before you screw it to the metal case – else the regulator will short. And don’t throw away original screws. Believe it or not, but they will fit perfectly.

As I’ve promised, original screws fit perfectly. However there is one problem…

We have to put the screws from the back side. In order to do that you will need to unscrew the front metal part of the case and slightly put it at the angle in order for the screwdriver to reach the lower hole of the LCD screw.

Now remember that power inverter connector that i told you to keep? The two wires that it is providing are exactly what we need. They are 0 and +5V power supply for the LCD backlight. You might have to extend these two wires to be able to reach pin 15 and pin 16 of the LCD. Make sure you check with the multimeter which wire is 0 and which is +5V and read LCD specs sheet about which pin requires 0 and which +5V.

Or if you want to go full pimp mode, connect just the 0 wire to the LED power supply pin, and send the +5V to the potentiometer on the back of the unit. The specs is 1k LOG (usually labeled as 1kB). You want to connect it as shown in the image above (left and center pin, looking from below) to apply gradual resistance to dim the backlight. Again, these new LCD backlights are a bit on the brighter side, and this mod lets you dim the brightness and thus largely increase the contrast of the display.

Quick test on the bench shows success. Display’s “blue” color is artifact due to camera’s color balance. Display is actually white/black. And once you dim it, looks almost OLED like super sharp and contrast-y!

Akai S-950 Upgrades Part1: Power connector upgrade & cosmetics

Step one: disassemble the unit.

This is the easiest of the mods. For some reason some of the Akai S-950 use a 2 pin power connector which is not compatible with a standard IEC connector and thus our standard power supply cables.


This connector belongs to bin.

You will need a good ole file tool and a soldering iron. Simply remove the old connector. Use a file tool to widen the existing hole and insert the new connector.

You will notice a small board to which the existing connector was soldered to. Add a new wire there and solder it onto the grounding hole pin. In the image above, the new wire is the black one (the one without transparent plastic insulator!), and the location for the soldering point is shown. The length should be the same as the existing two so that you can reach the connector. Then insert the new IEC connector and solder all three wires, with the new wire that you just added going to the middle pin. That’s the ground pin connection. So that from now on your Akai not only accepts common IEC cable, but is now grounded properly.

The good thing is that the holes for the screws will fit prefectly. You just need to file the existing connector hole a bit (from all sides!).

With the unit disassembled, you can do some washing now.

And with generic grey matte spray paint, you can restore the knobs to be as new. Just make sure you sand down the existing paint first. Then 5-6 light coatings from a 30cm / 1ft distance will do fine.

A proper Akai S-950 User Manual
If there is anyone looking for a user manual for an Akai S-950 that is not missing any of its pages it can be found right here: https://donsolaris.com/tmp/Akai_S-950_Manual.pdf The reason I mention this is because of the fact that all of the S-950 manuals that are online are for some reason missing / have plenty of blank pages. This one has all of the pages and no blanks! Horray.

Waiting for hard disk ready….SKIP (solved!)

If this ever happens to anyone, and the machine is hanging even after you press F7, the problem is the busted SCSI fuse. You’ll have to disassemble the unit, remove outputs board and solder wire (with fuse holder) to two joints on the mainboard. I highly recommend using a fuse holder so that in the future you don’t have to solder anything, just replace the fuse!

Fuse value is 50V 1A, but you don’t have to use replacement part. A simple classic (glass) fuse will do the job 120V or 230V 1A (this is crucial). While there, get yourself one of these fuse holders and install it, so that in the future you don’t have to solder fuses.

If you own S3000XL location of the fuse in the picture below. If you own some other model you will have to find it yourself. Notice: you can solder wires directly to the solder joints here if you will use glass fuse.

This is the part you have to remove (make sure to solder two wires there, you will connect them to the new fuse holder):

Drill a hole on the back of the unit:

And install a fuse holder:

And now if the fuse goes out ever again, no more soldering or disassembling the unit. Just twist to open, and replace the fuse with new one.